Halifax

Length of stay: 2 days
Visited: August 2024

Halifax is the capital of Nova Scotia and is the largest city in Atlantic Canada. Its harbour is one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world. It has a rich history, a vibrant waterfront and is full of all that Maritime charm.

Day 1: The Waterfront

From Grand-Pré National Historic Site we headed to Halifax. It rained for the better part of the drive, but the clouds were starting to clear by the time we arrived downtown. But the rain brought even more humidity. And it was hot. Once we found somewhere to park, we headed towards the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic which is located near the waterfront. The museum showcases the Maritime history of Canada with a special focus on Nova Scotia.

Some highlights include exhibits on the Titanic (which tells the story of how it was built, then sank, along with the key role Halifax played in the disaster), the Halifax harbour explosion (caused when two ships collided in the harbour in 1917, one of which was carrying high explosives which then caught fire), shipwreck treasures (contains stories and some discoveries found underwater in the Maritimes), and a gallery of small boats (that are or were common in Nova Scotia).

Afterwards we took a stroll on the boardwalk along the waterfront. Halifax boasts of having one of the longest urban boardwalks in the world. It spans about 4.4 kilometres from the Halifax Seaport where Pier 21 is located to Casino Nova Scotia. Along the way there’s a variety of restaurants, shops, and places to hang out and enjoy the views.

We then walked to the Government House of Nova Scotia, the official residence of the lieutenant governor of the province. Entrance is free and we were given a 15 minute tour of the main floor to learn more about the history of the house. The lieutenant governor lives on the second floor, which is not open to the public. The house is the oldest official government residence in Canada and has been used for more than 200 years. As part of our tour, we viewed the main foyer, morning room, drawing room, dining room, grand staircase and ballroom.

The baby was starting to get fussy so we headed back to the car. Along the way we passed St. Mary’s Cathedral Basilica. It would have been nice to take a peak inside, but we didn’t want to risk baby M having a meltdown. A crying baby inside a church isn’t fun for anyone.

And so we returned to the car and headed to Cape Breton Island. We planned to circle back to Halifax towards the end of our trip to do a bit more exploring.

Day 2: Halifax Citadel

After spending the past few days in Cape Breton Island, it was time for us to leave the highlands behind and return to Halifax to fly home. But before that we still had a day to soak in the coastal scenery and see some of the sights. We headed to the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. We visited the Fortress of Louisbourg the day before and had some regrets about bringing our stroller. So this time we didn’t hesitate to leave it behind and put the baby in her carrier, which was a good call.

The Citadel is situated on a large hill overlooking the harbour and was used to defend the city during the 18th and 19th centuries. There have actually been four versions of the Citadel constructed with the first version built in 1749. The current Citadel was completed in 1856 and was meant to be a stronger and more permanent fortress. It was also used to house thousands of soldiers and their families.

We started at the Information Centre to get our bearings. The park provides free guided tours every hour on the hour, but we just missed it by a few minutes so we decided to just explore on our own, which is typically our style anyway. We picked up a map of the fortress and got to it. We first went for a walk along the walls of the fortress.

We then checked out some of the various rooms that were open. This included the barracks where the soldiers ate and slept, the guard room, administrative offices, a school room, and rooms where the gunpowder and artillery were stored. There were also a series of exhibits that provided more information about the Citadel, the importance of Halifax’s harbour and Nova Scotia’s military past. As a special exhibit, there was also something to mark the 80th anniversary of D-Day during WWII and Canada’s role in the Battle of Normandy.

There’s also a pair of Parks Canada Red Chairs overlooking the harbour.

It took us about two hours to explore the Citadel at our own pace. We then headed back to the car as we planned to spend the rest of the day at Peggy’s Cove in the hopes it would be cooler.

L

74 thoughts on “Halifax

  1. kagould17 says:

    What’s not to like about Halifax, except maybe the frequent rain. The Maritime Museum is a delight and if you looked at any of the scale model boats, some were crafted by our former neighbour’s father from Cape Breton. He is a master woodworker an also built my mandolin. We know him well. Love the waterfront walk and I find it strange we have never done the Citadel tour, so thanks for taking us there. Happy Thursday Linda. Allan

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Oh I know. Halifax is very charming. Thankfully we didn’t have to deal with much rain when we were in Nova Scotia, just the heat and humidity. The Maritime Museum was up at the top of things we wanted to do in Halifax and it did not disappoint. That’s so neat how your neighbour’s father crafted some of the scale model boats that are showcased in the museum. Glad you have a piece of his work as well. Have a wonderful weekend. Linda

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Same! Cape Breton was such a highlight of the trip for us. We went to the national park and the Fortress of Louisbourg. The scenery is outstanding and it was neat to learn more about its history.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Halifax is very charming. There’s always something so relaxing about being by the water. And they’ve made excellent use of their waterfront. It’s very much for the people, as it should be.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Oh I know! We seemed to have visited Nova Scotia during the middle of a heat wave. Thankfully it was a bit cooler closer to the water. Despite the heat and humidity we still enjoyed wandering around and getting a feel for the city.

  2. Monkey's Tale says:

    I love Halifax. The Citadel was still closed due to Covid when we were there in 2022
    (I think) but a few years earlier I was at a conference in Halifax and one of our social events was inside. What a great venue it was. Maggie

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      What a fabulous venue for a social event! Isn’t it great when you travel for conferences?! It’s too bad it was closed when you were there a couple of years ago though. We were actually in Nova Scotia in 2022 too as part of a short road trip through the Maritimes. We only went to Cape Breton Highlands though and didn’t see much else of Nova Scotia. So it was nice to return this past summer to explore it more fully.

  3. Rose says:

    Halifax sounds like a wonderful city to visit. I love the boardwalk. Does the lieutenant governor have use of the main floor of the residence? Or are they sequestered to the second floor? Imagine the family events that could be held on the main floor. I would get in trouble for pretending to be a Ruler and giving impromptu speeches…

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Halifax is very charming. There’s always something so peaceful about being by the ocean. I believe the lieutenant governor spends most of their time on the second floor and the first floor is more for entertaining guests or to hold special events. I couldn’t help but laugh at your comment about how you would give impromptu speeches!! How could you not when there is a podium right there!?

  4. Thattamma C.G Menon says:

    Such a wonderful beauty of the places , so admiring dear your photography and explanations as well 🌷🙏👍🏻❤️
    Beauty of calm ocean , Museum , the walkway of 🌊 two side’s sea marvellous and the lovely boats 🚣🏿‍♀️ are all
    fantastic 👌Halifax is full of stunning nature can view 💐thank you for sharing my lovely friend 🥰God Bless 👏

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Thanks so much for your kind words and for leaving a comment. It’s always so peaceful and relaxing being by the water. Despite the heat, we enjoyed going for a walk along the waterfront. Have a wonderful weekend. Linda

      • Thattamma C.G Menon says:

        Thank you so much for so lovely feedback 🌷🙏🌷I forgot to comment
        on the most beautiful church ⛪️ Thank you for sharing the great places
        Which I can’t visit , but your photos all so beautiful and inspiring 👌😍
        All well wishes to you dear and your loving family 🖖💞👏

      • WanderingCanadians says:

        Agreed, the church is lovely. It’s too bad we didn’t have enough time to take a peak inside. Perhaps we’ll return to Halifax someday. Enjoy the rest of the week. Take care.

  5. Michele Lee says:

    This is an area I would love to visit. Thanks so much for bringing more info to my awareness. The colorful chairs are so quaint, and you’ve reminded me I have photos from the Titanic Museum in Ireland that I’ve never shared.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      I hope you’re able to make it there someday. Canada’s east coast is so charming, scenic and peaceful. And the people are so friendly! We haven’t been to Ireland yet, but when we go, we’ll for sure have to visit the Titanic Museum.

      • Michele Lee says:

        Both Canada and Ireland are blessed with friendly people. I saw that trait in my Canadian born grandfather, for the brief time I had with him. As for the Titanic Museum in Ireland it will be worth your visit I do believe. I was overwhelmed with emotion, but I am grateful for the experience.

      • WanderingCanadians says:

        The Maritimes actually has a pretty big Irish population. So no wonder everyone is so friendly! Ireland has been on our travel bucket list for awhile now. It seems like it would be great place to take a road trip with our little one, assuming we’re able to drive on the opposite side of the road!

      • Michele Lee says:

        Brave of you! I might attempt oppositive driving. I have been giving my (awkward) left side more attention through dance, so perhaps that will help. Thank you for the reply and when the time is right, you all will love Ireland. 😊

      • WanderingCanadians says:

        We’ll get a taste of opposite driving soon as we’ll be heading to New Zealand next spring! Dancing sounds like a great way to work on (or embrace) your awkward side! And yes, I imagine I would really enjoy Ireland – the scenery, the trails, all of it.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Thanks so much for your kind words. I hope you’re able to make it there someday. The Maritimes are full of so much charm, character and history. There’s so many picturesque lighthouses and the coastal scenery is spectacular.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      The Halifax Explosion was pretty insane. It was apparently the largest man-made explosion to occur prior to the first atomic bombings during WWII. A terrible tale indeed. It’s amazing how the city was able to rebuild afterwards.

  6. wetanddustyroads says:

    The Maritime Museum sounds very interesting – Berto loves all things water/boats and will love this museum! And who doesn’t like a long boardwalk (the different coloured chairs are pretty). It sounds like Halifax is rich in history (especially when I read about your visit to the Citadel). I can now understand why tourists love this place so much.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      I can relate to Berto’s love of the water. There’s something so mesmerizing about it. It was neat to learn more about Halifax’s history from the Maritime Museum. Even though it was stinking hot outside, we still enjoyed our stroll along the waterfront. And yes, I can easily see why Halifax is so popular!

  7. Lyssy In The City says:

    Some great sights to see! I would enjoy touring the Government house it’s always interesting seeing what’s inside fancy government buildings. The Citadel looks pretty fascinating too.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Despite the heat, we enjoyed wandering around Halifax, especially along the waterfront. The Government House was quite lovely. We’re now curious to visit the ones in other provinces including our own.

  8. grandmisadventures says:

    I love Halifax! My daughter’s first big trip was to Nova Scotia and PEI. She won’t remember it since she was still a baby but it will always be a tender memory for me. I loved walking along the boardwalk in the harbor and visiting the citadel. We didn’t go in the Government House though- it looks really lovely!

  9. ourcrossings says:

    So many great sights to see and things to do, Linda, especially the Government House of Nova Scotia with its impressive interior design. One day, I’d like to visit this lovely port city known for its naval history, charming waterfront, and vibrant culture as it has an amazing Titanic exhibit in the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      There’s a bit of something here for everyone. Halifax is very family friendly and easy to get around. It was neat to peak inside the Government House. It made us wonder why we haven’t visited more of them across Canada, including in our home province of Ontario. I hope you’re able to visit someday as the Maritimes are really quite lovely.

  10. Diana says:

    Thanks for this tour of Halifax! I clearly need a return trip to Nova Scotia because we missed so much the first time around. The museum sounds really interesting. I’m looking forward to your posts on Cape Breton Island (the one part of Nova Scotia that I actually *have* been to).

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      It’s funny because the first time we visited Nova Scotia we only went to Cape Breton Island too. The landscape is quite different compared to the rest of the province. I’m glad we were able to return.

  11. Bama says:

    How lovely to have such a long boardwalk in the city! It really encourages people to walk more, especially when there are nice places along the way to enjoy the views. Visiting the Government House of Nova Scotia looks fun. But do you think 15 minutes were too short? I’m glad the weather kept improving during your stay in Halifax.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Halifax’s waterfront is fabulous and it’s very much for the people, as it should be. It was nice to go for a stroll along the boardwalk and get a feel for the city. You’re absolutely right how it’s a great way to encourage people to walk around more. The 15 minute tour of the Government House felt sufficient. We could return to any of the rooms afterwards and there was someone at the front desk to follow-up with if we had any additional questions. We’re now curious to visit more of them across Canada.

  12. Little Old World says:

    Halifax looks a fabulous city to explore! The Maritime museum, governor’s house and citadel all look fascinating, while the boardwalk looks a lovely place for a stroll. Thanks for the tour 🙂

  13. Dalmatian Insider says:

    I love all the colorful chairs! And that’s great they have an exhibit about Canada’s role in WWII and D-Day. I would like to learn more about that. Here in the US, the focus is so much on the US role… We shouldn’t forget about our allies. Halifax looks like a great place to visit.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      There were splashes of colour all along Halifax’s waterfront. It’s such a cool area to spend some time. History was one of my least favourite subjects in school. I have so much more of an appreciation for it now while travelling. Visiting museums and historic places is way more interesting than reading a text book!

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      We’re now curious to visit more Government Houses in some of the other provinces, including our own. The Citadel was a great way to learn more about Halifax’s early history. Thanks for reading!

  14. Ab says:

    You did a much more thorough tour of Halifax than we did. The Maritime Museum looks great and now that I know there’s a Titanic exhibit, I’ll have to check it out with T one day.

    A crying baby can certainly liven up a church! 😆 Maybe you’ll get to visit it again next time you’re in town.

    Did you get to visit their central library? That was a highlight for us. Beautiful architecture and design.

    Look forward to the Peggy’s Cove recap. Such a highlight of our visit.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      We wish we had a bit more time as there were a few other spots we would have loved to visit, but we’re on baby M’s schedule now! Good to know about the central library. Something to add to the list for next time. I have a feeling we’ll be back on the east coast soon. Peggy’s Cove was one of our highlights as well. It’s very charming and picturesque. But it’s also very busy. Then again, we stupidly visited on a Saturday afternoon!

  15. alisendopf says:

    Halifax has so much history. We also visited Pier 21, where immigrants arrived in Canada. That was interesting, though not quite a hyped as Staton Island. You say way more of the Citadel then I did when I was over 15 or so years ago. I’m wondering if they opened up more or if I just missed out?

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      We visited Pier 21 and the Canadian Museum of Immigration a couple of years ago when we took a road trip through the Maritimes with my mom and uncle. We tried to look up the immigration records for my grandparents, but we were missing some key details so they weren’t able to track the records down.

      I imagine the Citadel has probably added a few new exhibits since then. I guess this means you’ll have to return to check them out!

      • alisendopf says:

        Oh, that would be cool to look up your grandparents! By the time my FIL came to Canada, Pier 21 was closed, and everyone sailed up to Quebec. A different experience, for sure.

      • alisendopf says:

        Yes, absolulelty, especially while you still can.

        My MIL just passed away, and we had some gaps in her history. She’s from England, and they moved around a lot due to WWII and her dad being in the military. So glad we got the info from her last surviving sister.

        Good luck with the genealogy. It’s a real passion for some people.

      • WanderingCanadians says:

        Glad to hear you were able to get the missing pieces from your mother-in-law’s history. My husband actually plans to work on his family tree with his dad during his parental leave.

  16. rkrontheroad says:

    The Government House is certainly elegant. I understand Adirondack chairs are named for where they were originally made, but I think of them as Canadian chairs. They seem to be everywhere in Canada and so colorful!

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      Most provinces and territories in Canada have their own Government House. This was the first one we’ve been inside. We’re now curious to see what the others are like. In Canada we commonly refer to the Adirondack style of chairs as Muskoka Chairs. Regardless of what they’re called, they’re quite comfortable!

  17. Lookoom says:

    The Halifax Waterfront is particularly lively in summer and is a great place to spend time in fine weather. Visiting Louisbourg and the Halifax Citadel back-to-back should allow you to compare them.

    • WanderingCanadians says:

      They’ve done a fabulous job with the Halifax Waterfront. It’s very much for the people with walking paths, shops, restaurants and places to just sit and hang out. And yes, it was nice to visit both Louisbourg and the Halifax Citadel. Louisbourg is much more extensive, but it was neat to learn about both of their histories. Parks Canada always does such great work!

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