Length of stay: 2 days
Visited: April 2025
Milford Sound is located in Fiordland National Park in the South Island of New Zealand. It’s referred to as the eighth wonder of the world because of its breathtaking scenery. It features majestic mountains, lush rainforests and thousands of temporary waterfalls. Why temporary you ask? Because of the rain. Milford Sound is one of the wettest places on Earth. It rains an average of 182 days of the year with an annual rainfall of around 7,000 millimetres. And every time it rains, the landscape comes to life with countless waterfalls cascading down the mountains.
Day 1: Short Trails and Soggy Steps
It was supposed to be a very rainy day in Milford Sound and the forecast was calling for 50-65mm of rain throughout the day. This is quite normal, so in some ways, we’d be getting an authentic experience. We headed out after breakfast. From Te Anau it’s about an 120km drive to Milford Sound which takes, on average, just under two hours to get there, assuming you make no stops along the way. We filled up on gas before embarking on our day trip as there are no gas stations along the way.
The road is paved and there are plenty of viewpoints, hiking trails and campgrounds along the way. Our strategy was to make a direct shot to Milford Sound so M could go down for her morning nap. Despite the weather, it was a very scenic drive, passing through dense foggy forests first. We then drove through Homer Tunnel, a 1.2km-long passageway through solid rock. Prior to the tunnel being constructed, there was no road access to Milford Sound. There are traffic lights to control and direct the flow of traffic. The light was green so we passed through with minimal waiting.
The landscape dramatically changed, opening up into the valley with towering mountains on either side. And because of the rain, there were hundreds, if not thousands, of waterfalls cascading over the cliffs. It looked like someone had poured a ladle over the top of the mountains and the water was streaming down everywhere. Taking pictures was a bit challenging because of the weather and it was hard to do the landscape justice.
The rain grew harder as we neared Milford Sound. The road ends at a giant parking lot where there’s a small cafe and information centre. Most people come here to take a cruise of the fjord. It didn’t seem appealing in the torrential downpour. But we came here to hike (as we weren’t sure how our little one would do on a two hour boat ride). After using the restrooms, we backtracked to Chasm Falls.
It took some convincing to get out of the car into the heavy rain and it didn’t help that we saw some lightning and heard thunder. From the carpark there’s a gravel path that follows the edge of the Cleddau River, featuring a series of gushing cascades and interesting swirling patterns in the rocks. At the trailhead there was a sign to indicate that part of the trail was closed, including the bridge that crosses the river, but you can still walk part of the way and view the upper viewpoint of the falls and chasm. The river was very lively from all the rain.
Since we had all our rain gear on, we stopped to hike the Lake Gunn Nature Trail (1.4km loop, rated easy), which is located in the Cascades Creek Campground. The rain had let up quite a bit and it was actually pretty pleasant outside. And we were the only ones here. The trail loops through a dense forest filled with tall mossy trees and countless ferns, all thriving from the rain. It also passes a viewpoint of Gunn Lake.
We also stopped at Mirror Lakes. There’s a wide boardwalk that leads to a few viewing platforms of the small lakes overlooking Earl Mountain. We didn’t see much mountains, just fog. But it was quiet and peaceful and we were the only ones here too.
We wanted to squeeze in one last hike at Mistletoe Lake, but decided to head back to our accommodations to take a break, get out of the rain and make a cup of hot chocolate. It’s not far from Te Anau, only a 20 minute drive, so we headed back out there later in the afternoon.
The Lake Mistletoe Track (1.3km loop, rated easy) meanders through the forest and features a lookout of the lake. It was still lightly raining, but it wasn’t too bad. Once again, we were the only ones here, which was really nice. We took our time, spotting some interesting mushrooms and fungi on the trail.
We also noticed some foaming trees. Intrigued, we looked it up afterwards. During a dry period without much rain, an assortment of particles, plant chemicals and air pollutants accumulate on the bark surface. During heavy or extended rainfalls, the particles mix with the rainwater, creating what looks like a frothy white foamy soap as it flows down the trunk of the tree.
Despite the rain, it was still an enjoyable experience exploring Milford Sound and some of the trails along the way. And this way we didn’t have to deal with the crowds that typically flock to this area.
Day 2: Key Summit Trail
We initially planned to drive to Queenstown in the morning. But the weather was looking promising in Milford Sound with a mix of sun and clouds. We felt a bit cheated by all the rain yesterday so we decided to return part of the way to hike the Key Summit Track, which is what we wanted to do yesterday, but obviously didn’t because of the heavy rain.
From Te Anau it’s a one hour drive to The Divide which marks the start of the Key Summit Track (8km round trip, rated moderate). The first stretch follows the Routeburn Track, a 33km multi-day hiking trail through the mountains and alpine meadows. The path is gravel and winds through the forest. It’s pretty much all uphill, starting with a series of gentle switchbacks which progressively get shorter and steeper. Despite all the rain from yesterday, the path was in pretty decent shape. It was cloudy when we started but could see bits of sunshine through the shaded canopy overhead.
At the junction, the trail splits off with the Routeburn Track to the left and Key Summit to the right. The path soon ascends above the treeline, providing a stunning view of the valley below.
There’s an option to hike the Key Summit Alpine Nature Walk, which takes about 30 minutes. The trail loops around several small alpine ponds and there’s a detour for a lookout of Lake Marian. It’s relatively flat and mostly along a narrow boardwalk, which was a nice change of pace, except for one final push uphill to get to the lookout. We figured we made it this far, so trudged ahead.
We’re so glad we got an early start as on the return trip back to the parking lot we passed several other hikers. Overall it took us 3 hours to complete. After eating lunch in the parking lot, we hit the road. We were tempted to drive all the way towards Milford Sound, but figured we had a long enough drive to Queenstown as is. As we were nearing Te Anau, we stopped for a sheep crossing.
We filled up on gas then kept driving. It was a scenic drive to Queenstown, especially as we followed the shore of Lake Wakatipu, the longest lake in New Zealand. There were lots of overlooks, but M was napping, so we kept driving. We arrived at our accommodations shortly after 4pm and got settled in.
L
What a fantastic place. Great photos, glad you had some blue skies too.
Thanks for your kind words. It was actually neat to see the contrast in the landscape in the rain compared to sunshine. Either way, we still enjoyed the scenery and trails. But it was much nicer to hike when it wasn’t raining!
Oh my gosh!!! New Zealand is incredibly beautiful, I am astounded just sitting on my couch, guys! The rivers and waterfalls, mountains an valleys are like an Eden! The sheep have great smiles, don’t they? Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful island! ❤️😊☺️
On one hand the rain wasn’t ideal, but it really transformed the landscape and made everything come alive with all those waterfalls and cascades. The drive through the mountains was unlike anything we’d ever seen before. And yes! The sheep do seem a happy lot don’t they?
Excellent post! ❤️
Majestic! ✨🍃🤩
The landscape looked magical, especially in the rain with all those waterfalls cascading down the mountains.
Wow! What a stunningly beautiful region, Linda. It’s truly amazing what water does – that rain forest! Although you had to walk in the deluge it looks like a fantastic place to visit and also iconic with the sheep being heated across the road. Cheers.
Milford Sound was one of the highlights of our trip to New Zealand. Oddly enough, it looked even more magical in the rain, but it was nice to also have a day without the rain to contrast and compare. And I doubt we would have hiked to Key Summit if it was still raining! Seeing the sheep crossing was an excellent way to wrap up our time there before moving on to Queenstown.
Wow, these photos are amazing …
Looks like such an adventurous and beautiful trip. May the Lord keep you all safe, well, and blessed along the way 🙏.
Safe travels and more adventures ahead …
Thanks for your kind words and for leaving a comment. The scenery in Milford Sound was outstanding. It was hard not to be impressed and amazed at the beauty around us.
We have been to Milford on a sunny day and on a rainy day. They say you don’t have the complete picture of the place unless you see it during or after a rain. The mountains are awash with a waterfall. Both times, we did the boat cruise which was wonderful in rain or sun. Looks like you found some great hikes and a bit of sun on the 2nd day. We did the short hikes at Milford in 2002 and just made it through the Homer Tunnel before they closed if for a day due to an avalanche. Thanks for sharing your experience Linda. Have a great Sunday. Allan
I can see why. There was something magical about seeing all those waterfalls cascading down the rugged mountains. I’ve never seen anything like that before. It did make hiking with a little one challenging though, which is why we stuck to some of the shorter trails on the first day. Thankfully the weather gods took pity on us the following day and we were able to hike Key Summit. When we go return to NZ we’ll have to check out the cruise.
Good timing with the Homer Tunnel! It’s not like there’s many options for accommodations or food near Milford Sound.
Oh, so baby M didn’t see the sheep crossing? I’m not a kid, but I enjoyed sheep crossing.🤭 It looks so fun. The mossy trees! How amazing. I think it was challenging for you to explore in the heavy rain, especially with Baby M. I enjoyed all the photos, Linda.
Thanks Hazel. Baby M caught the end of the sheep crossing. As soon as we stopped driving, she woke up. I don’t think she seemed to mind though as she’s a big fan of animals. It was definitely challenging to hike in the rain with M, which is why we stuck to some of the shorter trails. Thankfully it wasn’t windy and our umbrellas offered some protection from the rain.
My pleasure, Linda. Good to know the rain isn’t accompanied by wind. Hugs to you and baby M.
It could have been worse. And it always helps to look on the bright side of things!
It looks so beautiful even in heavy rain Linda with all those waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. I’m glad you were able to backtrack the next morning when the weather had improved and complete those trails.
Me too. It was neat to see how different the landscape looked in the rain versus sunshine. I had no idea how many mountains there were when it was overcast.
💚💙
Thanks for reading and leaving a comment. We had a delightful time in Milford Sound, rain or shine.
Oh, how beautiful! I’m glad the weather was kind to you on the second day, so you got to hike the Key Summit Trail and see the stunning views. Although even in the heavy rain, it looks spectacular. Your photo of the sheep crossing made me smile 🙂
On one hand it was nice to get the full experience and see Milford Sound in the rain. It really does transform the landscape with all those cascading waterfalls. But it was also nice to have some sunshine and appreciate the views without the clouds. Plus it made hiking far more enjoyable too!
So wonderful places photos to view and read the explanations marvellous 🌷🙏👌 the beauty of the Lake breathtaking view and surrounding trees , the walking journey of the roads and everywhere greenery , from mountains waterfalls are gorgeous 👍🏻🌱💦I enjoyed the natural beauty , thank you for sharing my dearest friend , well explained 😊🌷🙏🌷
Thanks for your kind words and for leaving a comment. The scenery was so lush and green, likely from all the rain. It was really neat to see all those waterfalls. I’ve never seen anything quite like that before. It was also nice to return the next day when the sun was shining and see how different the landscape looked.
Really true 👍🏻🌷 thank you so much dear friend for your lovely feedback and most welcome wishes 🖖❤️👏
And thank you for your kind words. Enjoy the rest of the week.
🌷🙏🥰🌷
Milford Sound is a place I most want to see in New Zealand’s South Island. When I do plan to go there one day, I will for sure come back to this blog post. How lucky you were to have a day with a nice weather right after the heavy rain the day before!
Thanks for your lovely comment Bama. The scenery in the South Island is more dramatic compared to the North Island. Milford Sound was easily one of our highlights and is worth adding to your list. Be prepared for the rain though!! It’s so worth seeing, rain or shine.
So smart to go back the second day to be able to see those mountain views with a blue sky. But 65mm of rain forecasted! I’m not sure I would have gone out in it, so good for you guys. Maggie
We couldn’t resist, even it meant more driving that day. It’s amazing how different things looked with a bit of sunshine. I must say, I think the landscape looked even more magical in the rain. And it helped keep the crowds away.
Oh my goodness, that sheep crossing doesn’t look real! I can only imagine what it was like to witness and experience in person! 💕
I’ve never heard about Milford Sound until your post and I can see why it’s considered the 8th wonder of the world. Looks straight out of a fantasy novel and film like Lord of the Rings – especially those tiny falls steaming down the facade of the mountain during the rainfall.
Glad you got a day 2 of better weather and such lovely scenery!
The sheep crossings were great. We didn’t mind pulling over to wait and watch the sheep go by. Our little M was a huge fan as well.
Milford Sound is such a magical place and was one of the highlights of our trip to NZ. It was neat to experience it in the rain and when it was sunny. I’m typically not a fan of the rain, but I must say, I think the landscape looked even more beautiful when everything was wet. It wasn’t ideal for hiking though. It was actually used as a filming location in all three LOTR films. It’s also been featured in a few other films as well.
Hope you’re enjoying the warmer weather this weekend!
Two amazing days with fantastic hikes and views. I love the misty landscapes, mossy trees, dense forest and then that sunny walk around the lakes – gorgeous. This is perhaps my favourite place from your New Zealand posts so far.
This was actually one of our favourite places that we visited in New Zealand. We could have easily spent more time in Milford Sound. It’s such a unique area and the scenery is ridiculously beautiful, rain or shine.
Absolutely stunning scenery. The foaming tree is really interesting; I’ve never heard of such a thing. Your photos are beautiful. I’m enjoying reading about your time in New Zealand.
Aww thanks for your lovely comment Tricia. The foaming trees were new to us too and apparently it’s perfectly normal. It was neat to see and I guess one of the rewards for hiking in the rain.
Wow that scenery was absolutely amazing!! 💞 Those mountain waterfalls, boardwalks, and mossy walking paths – all WOW!! 😍 As you were hiking through all the wilderness by yourselves, I wondered if there was any wildlife you had to be concerned about. But then I saw the sheep crossing at the end and had to laugh. That ‘wildlife’ doesn’t look too dangerous. 🐑😂
I know! There was beauty all around us no matter which way we looked. It was neat to see how different the landscape looked depending on the weather. In some ways, the rainy day was more memorable as the landscape really came alive with all those waterfalls. Plus we were pretty much the only ones on the trail. It truly felt magical. The nice thing about NZ is that there aren’t really any predators. There are a lot of sheep though!
It must be a different experience hiking through all the wet environment. The photo of the “thousand” cascading falls brought memories back of the same experience in the east coast of Mindanao in the Philippines. We were cresting a road with a cliff at one side and a drop on the other side. The cliff had water cascading down due to a recent rain. Right at the crest was a panoramic view of the east coast with waves rolling in the shore. It was a sad day to remind myself to have a camera ready always.
It was neat to compare and contrast the landscape in the rain versus sunshine. In many ways the rain really made the landscape come to life, but it also made it more challenging to hike and take pictures. I’m now curious to visit the east coast of Mindanao. Sounds like an unforgettable experience.
It was a remarkable experience. Totally unexpected. It’s not as tourist friendly though as most popular places.
But that’s also kind of nice as I’m sure it felt more like an authentic experience. I’m so over the popular places during peak travel season!
Oh wow, it’s absolutely beautiful. I’m sorry you had such bad weather on day 1, though seeing the foaming trees is really unique, I didn’t know that could happen. I’m glad it cleared up on day 2, those views out along the board walk are just stunning 🙂
I have mixed feelings about the rain. I hate hiking in it and I have such an aversion to getting my hair wet. Buuut, it really made the landscape come to life with all those waterfalls and yes, foaming trees. I had no idea that was a thing either. We saw a few of them on the trail and had to look it up afterwards as we were so intrigued.
Wow..wow.. What a place!! Its so beautiful!!!
It’s even better in person. It was tough to do the landscape justice, especially when it was raining, but it was breathtaking.
Your pictures are all so stunning!! It’s beautiful no matter the weather it seems. I love you description of pouring a paddle over the mountains, that’s exactly what it looks like haha.
Thanks Lyssy! Rain or shine the landscape looks gorgeous. I’m glad we got to visit when it was and wasn’t raining to get the full experience. It is much easier to hike when it’s not raining though!
What amazing scenery. I never tire of these posts. I can see why they chose New Zealand to film Lord of the Rings.
Thanks for your lovely comment. I can totally see why LOTR was filmed entirely in NZ too. It’s incredible how varied the landscape is. But no matter where you are, whether on the North or South Island, the scenery is outstanding.
What a difference in weather from one day to the next. Glad you got the authentic experience with the rain but even happier for you to see the sun came out. Good decision to stay and see it in all its beauty!
Oh I know. And oddly enough, I can’t decide which I preferred more. The rain wasn’t ideal for hiking, but it really made the landscape come to life. As you said, it was nice to get both experiences
That is an unbelievable amount of rain to receive each year, and also a truly incredible number of waterfalls! I’m glad it cleared up for your second day. The landscape is even prettier with the blue skies, and the low hanging clouds really lend an extra layer. Great photos!
Thanks Diana! While it was neat to see the landscape come alive from all the rain, it’s much nicer to hike when it’s not pouring rain. And it gives you a chance to see the mountains more clearly.
The landscape looks amazing. The Lake Gund Trail photos remind me of the rainforest in Olympic National Park here in Washington.
It’s funny that you mention that because we were thinking the same thing, that the rainforests in Milford Sound reminded us of Olympic National Park and the west coast in Canada. And I guess they don’t call it the rain forest for nothing!
Stunning pictures of such a dynamic landscape. I love the frothy tree and those towering rocks. The whole place just.feels a little magical 🙂
Thanks for your kind words. Agreed, the landscape looks so magical with those enchanting rain forests and mountain scenery. The foaming frothy trees were fascinating. I’ve never seen that before.
Those pix are phenomenal. NZ has been on my bucket list ever since I read Lord of the Rings 😎
Thanks for your kind words and for leaving a comment. After visiting NZ I can easily see why it was chosen to film LOTR. For such a small country, the landscape is incredibly varied and extremely picturesque. If you ever do visit, I’d highly recommend going to Hobbiton. We’re both huge Tolkien fans and it was one of the highlights for us.
Milford Sound is everyone’s idea of heaven, isn’t it, so you were lucky in a way to have the rain experience and not have to share with crowds. And you certainly got your reward next day xx
Absolutely! The rain really transformed the landscape and it helped keep the crowds away. But I must say, it was also nice to experience it when it wasn’t raining and go for a longer a hike. Seems like we got the best of both worlds.
What a difference a day makes! I agree – you got the real experience! I hiked Scotland in the pouring rain, so I understand where you’re coming from. Seeing the hundreds of waterfalls – stunning and so worth the effort of heading out into the rain. I could just see you girding your loins 🤣 I do not love the rain. Brrrr.
The next day’s clear skies are such a contrast. Very well deserved after your bravery the day before.
Oh I know! It’s crazy how different the landscape looked in the mist and rain compared to the next day when it was bright and sunny. While the rain obstructed the views of the mountains and made hiking way more challenging and uncomfortable with our little one, the landscape felt more enchanting and magical. And it helped keep the crowds away. That being said, it was also nice to do a bit of hiking when it wasn’t raining too!
Just catching up with your blog, and you are in one of my favorite places! So beautiful and mysterious. I have done a drive around the South Island many times and would happy to do it again. Lovely photos! I didn’t do the trek, but spent a night on a boat in the sound.
Milford Sound was one of the highlights of our trip to NZ. It’s such a magical place, especially in the rain. We didn’t do a boat tour as we weren’t sure how our little one would handle it. But something to add to the list for next time. It’s neat that there’s also an option to spend a night on a boat. Sounds like a unique experience.
It’s a shame about the rain, but I know that when you get somewhere you’ve always wanted to go, it’s worth braving the weather.
Absolutely stunning photos Linda.
Thanks for your kind words. The scenery is beautiful rain or shine. I’m glad we were able to spend an extra day here as we couldn’t get enough of the enchanting landscape.
Your photos are absolutely stunning, Linda, as is the Milford Sound and its stunning scenery, dramatic waterfalls, and unique fjord landscape. It’s no surprise that this place is often called the “Eighth Wonder of the World”. It’s amazing to see how the rain only enhances the scenery by creating a dramatic landscape with thousands of temporary waterfalls cascading down the cliffs, and makes the permanent ones even more spectacular. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thanks for your kind words Aiva. Milford Sound is such a magical place, especially in the rain. It really makes the landscape come to life. That being said, it was also nice to visit when it wasn’t raining to better appreciate the views. Plus it’s way easier and more enjoyable to not hike in the rain! Enjoy the rest of the week. Linda
Milford Sound is definitely the one place we regret missing during our visit to NZ … especially now that I look at your beautiful photos! And even though it rained, it’s still stunning – all those waterfalls! And what a bonus that you were the only people in some places!
Sorry to hear that you weren’t able to visit Milford Sound when you were in New Zealand. It was hands down one of the highlights of our trip. While it’s never fun to hike in the rain, all the water really made the landscape come to life. It was beautiful. And it helped keep the crowds away. That being said, it was also nice to return the next day and do a longer trail when the weather was better.
Wow!! I have been to the other one – Doubtful Sound, mostly because Milford was quite busy. It was incredible and as picturesque as Milford. Though, I would love to do that walk you did there, it looks wonderful!
We were contemplating whether we could visit Doubtful Sound, but it seemed like quite the trek to get there and we weren’t sure how our little one would have fared on the adventure. I’ve heard it’s breathtakingly beautiful. And that it’s not nearly as busy as Milford Sound. Thankfully the heavy rain seemed to have kept everyone away from the trails.
I have to say, it was quite a long drive and quite an early rise for us at the time. Happy days! The rain for the save !!
But I’m sure it was worth it!
It would have been lovely to be able to go there at a younger and more mobile stage of my life. But hubby and I just went there early this year … not able to hike but still fell in love with it so much! Thanks for your wonderful images.
I didn’t have very good weather in Milford Sound either, and despite the beauty of the landscape, I regret not being able to enjoy it more. There is something curious about it: when I went through the tunnel, I felt isolated from the rest of the country.
I know what you mean, you really get a sense that you’re somewhere special after going through Homer Tunnel. Sorry to hear that you didn’t have the greatest weather either. In some ways I’m glad we got to see the landscape in the rain as that’s when it really comes alive with all those waterfalls. But then you miss out on the views.